When photographing nature and landscapes, it's very easy for your eye to get locked into wide angle mode. You know, where you're only seeing the big picture, the vast expanse of the landscape, the mountains, the horizon.

The problem with being locked into that mode is that you might be missing the details. The beauty of nature is not confined to the vast expanse. It is also present in small scenes. You will spot these details only if you remember to look for them.

For example, just walking outside to pick up the morning paper I spotted the winter's first frost on the fallen leaves covering my front lawn (above). It is exactly these small details that you want to learn to notice with a little practice.

Macro Equipment

Your equipment will limit exactly how close you can get to your subjects. Each lens has a close focus distance, which is the closest it is capable of focusing. Most compact digital cameras have a macro mode (typically indicated by a flower symbol) which you can turn on for especially close-up focusing.

If you're shooting with an SLR camera and can't get in close enough with the lenses you have, consider buying a macro lens. Macro lenses are specifically designed for focusing at ultra-close distances. They are typically available in 50, 60, 100, or 200mm focal lengths with 50mm being the cheapest. A good macro lens will at least let you focus down to a 1:1 ratio (which means the object you're shooting will appear at its actual size on film or a digital sensor). That's pretty close.

There are other options for SLR users on a budget, such as close-up filters and extension tubes. A high quality close-up filter works great, but with it on you'll be locked into close-up mode. So if something happens further away you'll need to remove the filter before you can photograph it.

Lighting

When using an SLR for close-up work, remember that an on-camera flash will not be effective without a little help. If your lens is up close to a flower, the light from your on camera flash (several inches above the flower) will go right over it. You'll need to move your flash off camera with a remote cord or wireless option to ensure its light is hitting your subject.

Serious macro photographers will typically use a specialized ringlight or similar flash unit to illuminate close subjects. These flash units attach to the front of the lens and are built for putting the light right onto a subject in close quarters.

Close-Up Depth of Field

Focus is critical when doing macro work. When you're in close, your depth of field is extremely shallow. Even at small apertures you're not going to have much depth from front to back. Make sure that what you want in focus is dead on. And shoot multiple images to be sure. With practice, you'll get better at it. By shooting from directly above a flat object you can ensure that it will be in focus.